Vegetable Tanned Leather: What It Is, How It Ages and Is It Vegan?

Vegetable tanned leather, or veg tan, is real animal leather that has been tanned with natural tannins from plants instead of chemical salts. It is firm at first, darkens and gets glossier with use, and is the leather we use for every Thepps wallet. This guide explains what it is, how it differs from chrome-tanned leather, whether it is vegan, and what to expect.

What is vegetable tanned leather?

Tanning is the step that turns a raw hide into leather that does not rot. In vegetable tanning, the hide is soaked in natural tannins from plants. It is a slow process: for our leather it takes four to six weeks. The result is a firm, natural-smelling leather with a warm colour.

The leather we use is full-grain buffalo leather, 1 to 1.2 mm thick, bought from a tannery in India and tanned with natural, non-toxic tannins. More about the leathers we use.

Is vegetable tanned leather vegan?

No. The word 'vegetable' describes only the tanning agent. The leather is still made from animal hide, usually cow or buffalo. Ours is buffalo. If you want a vegan wallet, vegetable tanned leather is not one. It is, however, a plant-based tanning process and avoids the chromium used in chrome tanning.

Vegetable tanned vs chrome tanned leather

One way to tell them apart: look at the cut edge. Chrome-tanned leather often shows a bluish or greyish layer in the middle, while vegetable tanned leather is tan or brown all the way through. It is a rough guide and not proof.

How does vegetable tanned leather age?

Handling, skin oils, light and time darken the leather and give it a smoother, glossier surface. This is called a patina. Wallets that are used every day patina faster. It is not damage; many people buy veg tan leather for exactly this reason.

Is vegetable tanned leather vs full grain the same thing?

No. They answer different questions. 'Full-grain' says which layer of the hide is used: the top layer, with its natural markings. 'Vegetable tanned' says how the hide was tanned. A wallet can be full-grain and vegetable tanned, which is what ours are, or full-grain and chrome tanned.

How do you care for it?

Wipe it dry, spot clean with mild soap, let it air dry, and condition it every six months or when it looks dry. Keep it away from heat and soaking. Water can leave darker marks on vegetable tanned leather, which usually fade or blend in with use. See our guide to how to care for a leather wallet.

Is it more expensive?

Usually, yes, because the process is slower and the leather is not coated to look even. That is why a hand-stitched full-grain vegetable tanned wallet costs more than a basic one. Ours start at ₹800 and most are ₹2,000 or less.

Questions people ask

Is vegetable tanned leather good for wallets? Yes. It is firm, strong, and it softens and darkens with use.

Is it waterproof? No. Avoid soaking it, and dry it naturally if it gets wet.

Why is it stiff when new? Vegetable tanned leather is not softened with chemicals. It loosens with use.

See our full-grain vegetable tanned leather wallets, or our guide to wallets under ₹2,000.